Thread count is the most overrated number in textiles. GSM is the one you should actually care about. Here's why.
What thread count is
Thread count = number of threads woven per square inch (vertical + horizontal). Higher number = supposedly tighter weave = supposedly better fabric.
That math gets gamed. Brands inflate thread count by twisting multiple thin threads together and counting each one. A "1000 thread count" sheet is often a 250 thread count sheet with 4 plies per thread. It's a marketing number, not a quality number.
Thread count also tells you NOTHING about:
- Fabric weight
- Fiber quality
- How it'll feel
- How it'll wear
What GSM is
GSM = Grams per Square Meter. The actual weight of the fabric.
It's a real number. Two pieces of fabric can have the same thread count but completely different weights. GSM tells you the substance.
Quick GSM reference for cotton:
- 100–150 GSM — lightweight (summer tees, voile, batiste)
- 150–200 GSM — medium (typical t-shirt jersey, light shirts)
- 200–300 GSM — heavyweight (premium tees, oxford shirts)
- 300–450 GSM — sweatshirt range (French terry, mid-weight fleece)
- 450–600 GSM — heavy (coats, structured outerwear)
- 600+ GSM — upholstery, canvas duck, thick denim
Why this matters for you
If you're making clothes, GSM tells you exactly what kind of garment the fabric will become.
A 220 GSM cotton jersey will feel "premium tee."
A 130 GSM cotton jersey will feel "drugstore tee."
Two different fabrics, both could be 100% cotton, both could be the same thread count. GSM is the deciding number.
For denim — same logic but measured in oz/sq yard. Same idea: weight is the truth.
The honest answer
Stop reading thread count. Start reading GSM. If a fabric doesn't list GSM, that's a yellow flag.
What we list
Every product on KBM Fabric lists GSM (or oz for denim) on the page. We also weigh fabric in-house when mills don't disclose. If you don't see it on a product, email us and we'll measure.
Got a fabric weight question? Email contact@kbmfabrics.store.