If you're picking a fabric for a t-shirt, a tee dress, a button-up, or anything that touches skin, you've probably hit the cotton vs modal vs tencel question. They all feel soft. They all sound natural. But they behave really differently once you cut, sew, and wash them. Here's the no-fluff breakdown so you can pick the right one the first time.
The Quick Take
Cotton is your reliable everyday workhorse. Modal is softer, silkier, and drapier than cotton. Tencel (Lyocell) is the most eco-friendly and the most luxe feeling of the three, but also the priciest. If you mix any two of them, you usually get something better than either one alone.
Cotton: The OG
Cotton is grown from the cotton plant, harvested, ginned, spun into yarn, then knit or woven into fabric. It's been the backbone of clothing for thousands of years and there's a reason it never went away. Cotton is breathable, durable, takes dye really well, and washes like a tank.
What cotton is great at:
- Tees and basics that need to survive 200 washes
- French terry hoodies and sweats
- Ribbing, jersey, waffle, denim. Literally most knits and wovens.
- Beginner-friendly sewing because it doesn't slip around
The trade-off: 100% cotton wrinkles, shrinks if it isn't pre-washed, and isn't the silkiest hand feel. If you want premium drape, cotton alone won't get you there.
Want to feel real cotton in your hands first? Order a swatch pack here and you'll know exactly what you're buying.
Modal: Cotton's Drapey Cousin
Modal is a regenerated cellulose fiber. The short version: wood pulp (usually beech tree) gets dissolved, extruded into fibers, and spun into yarn. It's plant-based, but processed into a fiber that behaves more like silk than cotton.
What modal is great at:
- Drapey tees and tanks that flow off the body
- Soft, silky hand feel right out of the bolt
- Holds dye really well, comes in rich saturated colors
- Resists shrinkage way better than cotton
- Pilling resistance, especially when blended with cotton or spandex
The trade-off: Pure modal can be a little slippery to sew. Most makers buy modal blended with cotton (and sometimes a touch of spandex). That combo gives you cotton's structure and modal's softness.
Tencel (Lyocell): The Eco Premium Option
Tencel is a brand name for lyocell made by Lenzing. Lyocell is also regenerated cellulose, but it's made from eucalyptus pulp using a closed-loop solvent process where 99% of the chemicals get recycled. That makes it the most sustainable option on this list by a wide margin.
What Tencel is great at:
- Luxury drape and a smooth, cool-to-the-touch hand feel
- Moisture-wicking, so it's great for warm weather
- Eco-friendly story for brands selling sustainability
- Wovens like shirting, blouses, dresses, and lightweight pants
- Resists wrinkles way better than linen or cotton
The trade-off: Tencel costs more per yard. And it can be a little finicky to sew because it wants to slide. Use a sharper needle, a walking foot if you've got one, and slow your machine down.
So Which One Should You Pick?
Going for a basic tee or hoodie?
Start with cotton or a cotton/modal blend. Cotton alone is fine. Cotton/modal is softer and drapes better but costs a bit more.
Want a flowy, drapey, body-skimming garment?
Go modal or a modal/spandex blend. The drape is unbeatable.
Building a premium or sustainable brand?
Tencel is your move. Customers will feel the difference and you get to tell the eco story honestly. Wholesale pricing on Tencel here if you're ordering for a brand.
Need a workhorse that handles everything?
Cotton/Tencel blend is the underrated combo. You get cotton's structure with Tencel's drape and softness. It's our go-to recommendation for cut-and-sew brands that don't want to stock five different fabrics.
Care Tips That Apply to All Three
- Cold water wash, inside out, gentle cycle
- Tumble dry low or hang dry (Tencel especially)
- Pre-wash before you cut. Always.
- Iron Tencel and modal on medium with steam, not high heat
Bottom Line
There's no single best answer here. Cotton wins on durability and price. Modal wins on softness and drape. Tencel wins on eco credentials and luxury feel. Most of the best fabrics on the market today are blends of these three because each one covers the other's weakness.
Not sure yet? Grab a KBM swatch pack with all three fiber types and feel them side by side. It's the cheapest way to learn what you actually like before committing to yards.
Questions about a specific project? Check our Help Center or just shoot us an email. We're makers too. We'll help you pick the right thing.