If you are building hoodies, the single most important decision you make is fabric weight. Get it right and your finished piece feels premium, drapes beautifully, and holds shape through years of washing. Get it wrong and you end up with either a t-shirt with a hood attached or a 10-pound monster that never dries.
This is a quick guide for makers picking French terry, fleece, or jersey for a hoodie build.
What weight should a hoodie be?
The sweet spot for most hoodies is 320 to 450 GSM (grams per square meter). Below that, you are in t-shirt territory. Above that, you are in jacket territory.
- 240-300 GSM – lightweight hoodies, summer pullovers, layering pieces
- 300-380 GSM – mid-weight everyday hoodies, the standard zone for most brands
- 380-450 GSM – heavyweight hoodies with serious presence, fashion-forward streetwear
- 450+ GSM – premium heavyweight, lap-of-luxury territory, almost jacket-thick
French terry vs fleece: what is the difference?
Both are go-to hoodie fabrics. The difference is in the back.
French terry has uncut loops on the inside. Softer hand, more drape, dries faster, less bulky. Best for lighter hoodies, joggers, and structured streetwear.
Fleece has brushed pile on the inside (the fuzzy stuff). Warmer, cozier, traps more heat. Best for cold-weather pullovers and oversized comfort wear.
What we stock at KBM
Our two most popular hoodie fabrics are heavy French terry at 450 GSM and medium French terry at 300 GSM. Both come with matching jersey and ribbing so you can use the same dye lot for the body, neckband, cuffs, and waistband.
The 450 GSM is the premium hoodie weight. Dense, structured, holds shape after years of wear. Comes in cream, jet black, charcoal, and natural. The 300 GSM is the everyday hoodie pick. Lighter, more breathable, great for spring and fall pullovers.
Common hoodie fabric mistakes
1. Going too light
240 GSM French terry can work for a featherweight hoodie but most makers get disappointed. The body feels flimsy, the hood collapses, and the finished piece does not look intentional. Default to 300+ GSM unless you have a specific reason to go lighter.
2. Skipping the ribbing
Matching ribbing for cuffs, waistband, and neck makes or breaks a hoodie. It is the difference between a finished garment and a homemade one. Always order ribbing in the same color as your body fabric.
3. Forgetting about shrinkage
Cotton French terry can shrink 3 to 7 percent on first wash if not pre-shrunk. Order an extra 10 percent yardage to be safe. Or pre-wash before cutting.
How much fabric do I need for a hoodie?
Plan on 2 to 2.5 yards of body fabric plus 0.5 yards of matching ribbing for an adult-sized hoodie. Order an extra half yard for safety, or for matching small details like pocket lining.
Want to feel the fabric first?
Order a swatch before committing to yards. It is a few dollars to feel the hand, see the color in person, and check the weight. Pro garment makers always swatch first.
Need bulk? Our wholesale program includes free priority swatches, dedicated support, and custom cuts.