A hoodie lives or dies by its fabric. The same pattern cut from a thin, loose knit and from a dense, heavy one gives you two completely different garments: one feels like a cheap promo hoodie, the other like something people keep for ten years. This guide covers which fabric to use, what GSM to buy, how to pick rib and hood lining, and how much yardage a hoodie takes.
Quick answer: the best fabric for hoodies
- Everyday hoodie that works most of the year: midweight cotton French terry, around 300 to 350 GSM.
- Warm, soft, classic hoodie: cotton fleece, brushed on the inside.
- Heavy, boxy, premium streetwear hoodie: heavyweight French terry or fleece, 400 GSM and up.
- Light zip-up or summer hoodie: lightweight French terry, around 200 to 250 GSM.
- Cuffs and hem: a cotton rib knit in a matching color and a weight close to the body fabric.
French terry vs. fleece for hoodies
Both are cotton knits with a smooth face and loops of yarn on the back. French terry leaves those loops as they are, so it breathes, keeps a clean shape and has a slightly drier hand. Fleece has the loops brushed into a soft pile, which makes it warmer and plusher on the inside.
For a brand's core hoodie, French terry is usually the safer pick: it looks good in more seasons and holds its shape wash after wash. Go with fleece when warmth and that cozy inside feel are what you're selling. We compare them side by side in French Terry vs. Fleece for Hoodies.
What GSM is best for a hoodie?
GSM (grams per square meter) is the quickest way to compare how heavy a fabric is. For hoodies, it decides how the garment hangs, how warm it is and how "expensive" it feels in the hand.
| Weight | GSM | What it feels like | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | 200 to 280 | Soft, drapey, easy to layer | Zip-ups, summer hoodies, layering pieces |
| Midweight | 300 to 380 | Substantial but not stiff | Everyday hoodies, the core of most collections |
| Heavyweight | 400 and up | Dense, structured, holds a boxy shape | Premium streetwear, oversized fits, cold weather |
Heavier is not automatically better. A heavyweight fabric needs a pattern built for it, with a roomier body, dropped shoulders and enough ease in the sleeves. Put a 450 GSM terry into a slim, fitted pattern and it will feel stiff and bulky. Match the weight to the fit you're going for.
What makes a hoodie look premium
- Weight that matches the fit. Boxy and oversized wants heavyweight. Fitted wants midweight.
- A rib that matches. Thin, washed-out cuffs on a heavy body are the fastest way to make a hoodie look cheap. Use a rib with similar weight and the same color.
- A lined hood. A double-layer hood stands up and frames the face instead of collapsing flat. Line it with the same fabric or a matching jersey.
- Testing shrinkage first. Cotton knits can shrink when washed. Wash and dry a sample piece before cutting production, and adjust the pattern if you need to.
French terry for hoodies
Our cotton French terry comes in three weights, all sold by the yard:
- Lightweight Cotton French Terry (10 oz, around 200 GSM) for zip-ups, summer hoodies and layering.
- Midweight Cotton French Terry (18 oz, 300 to 350 GSM) for the everyday hoodie. The most versatile of the three.
- Heavyweight Cotton French Terry (22 oz, around 450 GSM) for heavy, boxy, premium hoodies. Matching jersey is available separately for lining the hood.
Made with KBM fabric
@youngchickenpox came by our LA warehouse to pick up orange cotton French terry and turned it into this hoodie. See how the terry holds the shape of the hood and the full, roomy body.
Want to make your own? Browse our cotton French terry and fleece.
Fleece for hoodies
For a brushed, soft inside, we carry cotton fleece in two weights:
- Midweight Cotton Fleece (12 oz) for a classic, comfortable fleece hoodie.
- Heavyweight Cotton Fleece (24 oz) for a thick, warm, heavyweight hoodie.
Rib for cuffs and hem
The cuffs and bottom band need to stretch over a hand or hips and then snap back. That's what rib knit is for. Heavier hoodies want a heavier rib: a 2x1 rib pairs well with heavyweight terry and fleece, and a 1x1 rib suits lighter fabrics. Matching rib is available for many of our French terry and fleece colors, sold separately.
For a step-by-step on getting the match right, see How to Match Ribbing to Knit Fabric.
How much fabric do you need for a hoodie?
For most adult sizes, plan on about 2 to 2.5 yards of 60-inch-wide fabric for the body, sleeves, hood and kangaroo pocket. Add about 1/2 to 3/4 yard more if you're lining the hood, and about 1/2 yard of rib for the cuffs and hem. Oversized fits, long sleeves and larger sizes take more, so always check your pattern's cutting layout and the fabric width on the listing.
Making the full sweatsuit
For a matching set, cut the hoodie and the pants from the same fabric and color, use the same rib on every cuff, hem and waistband, and buy it all in one order so the colors line up as closely as possible. Our guide to the best fabric for sweatpants and joggers covers the bottom half.
Making hoodies for your brand?
Jeremy from @forthon.la walked into our store looking for fabric and a way to move his production from overseas to LA. We connected him with a local manufacturer, and he picked up the French terry for his brand's first production run right here.
Retail yardage is perfect for sampling and first runs. Once you're producing in volume, full rolls bring the price per yard down, and wholesale starts at one roll. Request a wholesale quote with the fabric, color and how many units you're planning, or browse all French terry and fleece.